Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
